Glasgow

Tonight I went to Glasgow! I didn't see much though, as it was dark. It was a bit of a fiasco getting there, but I finally figured out the train schedule and was safely on my way.

My reason for going was the Banff Mountain Film Festival, which I have been going to every year back home for years. I was sorry to be missing it this winter, but I was thrilled to see it would be playing in Glasgow, so I made a bit of an effort to go.

The films this year were really good; it was the best year in a few, I think, I liked them all. In particular there was a good one about a Swiss alpinist; it was pretty inspirational. He seemed, on the outside, a very modest and quiet man, but the film showed his intense drive to achieve his goals. There was also a good one about fishing in Kamchatka, which I think the whole audience was a bit apprehensive about, because it was the long film for the night - generally there are a number of short films with a long one, 40 minutes to an hour, in the middle. But it turned out to be really great. Also, the first film, only about five minutes long, was a series of photographs which this man had taken of himself every day for about 7 months as he walked across China. It was a neat idea because, even though it was just one photo a day (3,000 in 5 minutes, so they went by pretty quickly), it told the entire story of his journey, perhaps even better than had he filmed it.

All in all it was a great night, and I'm glad I made the effort and got to where I was going. I'll have to go back and see Glasgow in the day sometime.

Hill forts

I went on a long walk this morning in Holyrood Park, a large park behind my dorm area. I had been wanting to explore it before, but I hadn't gotten around to it, even thought it's practically out my back door. But in my Archaeology of Scotland course, our lectures had been on the Bronze Age, and yesterday's class was all about hill forts, structures built during that time. Remembering my experience at the Register, I realized that, for once in my career as a college student, I didn't have to assume that all the sites I was learning about were thousands of miles across the sea; that was why I was here, wasn't it?

So after class I went up to the lecturer, a Bronze Age archaeologist, and asked him if there happened to be any hill forts nearby that I might be able to go take a look at. And his enthusiastic response was that there were in fact three of these hill forts right in Holyrood Park. So this morning I thought it might be nice to go see what this park is all about, while also looking for what he said was the biggest hill fort, unusually large for such a structure. I had a feeling that it might be hard to spot, being perhaps more than two thousand years old, so I did some reconnaissance on Google Earth before I left, and did in fact see a large raised area on top of the Salisbury Crags, right where our lecturer had said it was.

The jist of this post is that I ran out between breakfast and class to go look at a Bronze Age hill fort. And it took me two whole weeks to realize I could do this.

Anyways, I took a nice walk up into the park; it was a little drizzly, but not too bad. The park is quite beautiful; it consists mainly of the Salisbury Crags, which slope down into a valley with a small lake, and then abruptly up into a large hill called Arthur's Seat, which is a rather prominent feature in the city. It extends back a ways too, but I only went up onto the crags; I intend to climb Arthur's Seat another time soon. Apparently there is another smaller hill fort on top, as well as terracing on the far side, remnants of prehistoric farming.

Because it was slightly raining, it was also slightly muddy, so the narrow earthen tracks leading up to the crags were a little treacherous. There were a few people out and about, a number of runners on the main track through the park, but mostly dog owners. I walked across the large field making up the back of the crags, keeping an eye out for mounts that would represent the hill fort. I went back and forth two or three times, in the end, but came up each time with nothing. The hill fort was no where to be seen. There were a couple of workers on the very edge of the crags who I briefly suspected of being archaeologists but were probably something else; one was rappelling down the cliff face. They probably thought I was crazy, as well as the hooded person perched on the edge of an outcrop looking out over the city.

But I was determined to find this fort. I had plenty of time before class, so I took a break from my hunt to approach, from a safe distance, the edge of the crags and take some pictures of Edinburgh. It started to really rain at this point, but I was able to get some nice overview shots of the city.


After looking out for a while and taking some more pictures of the park itself, and watching some of the dogs romping around in the wet grass below, it occurred to me that maybe I was going about this fort search the wrong way. Of course, it was only a raised area in the meadow, according to Google Earth, and although it was quite large, perhaps approaching it horizontally wasn't the best way to see it. I looked down from my position on top of the hill, but still saw nothing. So I thought, if I can't see it from the sides or from above, maybe I can see it from below?

Yet again I found the track, and made my way down to a little outcrop of rocks quite a ways down the hill. Upon reaching my destination, I turned around, and voila! There was the hill fort, perfectly laid out in front of me, and perfectly visible. The outcrop turned out to be the bottom edge of what was a vaguely elliptical raised section of the meadow - clearly not a natural feature. Needless to say, I was pretty excited, and spent a while more walking around the entire fort, trying to imagine how many people could have fit inside, how thick the walls could have been, etc. I'm sure the workman on top thought I was completely mad by this point.

I got the same thrill I had experienced when seeing the remains at the Register: here I was, standing on top of a fort which had been used by people thousands of years ago. Of course, there is history of this kind in America, but it's not visible, and even less is known of the history of the Native Americans than of the Bronze Age Britons. The people who lived in this hill fort were also the predecessors of the people I have been studying right next door. Of course this is why I am in Scotland; not only can I study medieval Scottish history, which isn't frequently taught in America, definitely not at Smith, but I can also go and experience these kinds of places, places for which I am devoting four years of my life, and, I expect, many more after that.

I also saw a large flock of crows as I left; I was really hoping they were ravens so I could take them as a sign from Odin. Maybe next time.

A night out

I had my first official seminar today. I was looking forward to it, but also a little bit worried as it is a more advanced course and I didn't really know what to expect. There was a lot of reading, which led me back to the library - it is very large and modern, as I said before, and a little intimidating as a result; fortunately I found my way around enough to print things out, take out books, make copies, and check them in again. There are machines where you can check things in and out on your own, which I thought were very cool. The library cafe is very nice too.

Anyways, my seminar...I did the reading, but I ended up having no idea what was going on. I realize it's a topic I've never even heard about until this week, but obviously I missed some important things, because I could barely follow the conversation, let alone participate. Better luck next time, I guess.

Tonight, I went to the theater, thought, so that made things alright. Because I am now a part of the theater appreciation society, I can get discounted tickets, so my first stop was a little up in the air, but it ended up being fine: Swan Lake on Ice. I had never seen a play on ice before (I didn't even know they did plays on ice) but it was apparently the premier theatrical ice company in the world, and all the skaters were obviously quite talented. The choreography was well-done, and over all I enjoyed it. I love Swan Lake in any context anyways, and that was my main motivation for going - that and curiosity. The music gets to me in an unusual way, more than a lot of other things; I mean, I don't have a heart of stone, and I've only seen the ballet a couple of times, but for reasons I'm not even too sure of myself, the music of Swan Lake is, to me, quite special.

Student card at last...

Tennis began today, through the social club run by the teams. I was a little rusty after a few weeks with almost no playing, but it was a lot of fun to get out there and hit some balls with a nice group. Although I have been playing tennis for a few years now, I sometimes get so bent on my own personal progress that I forget it's a social sport. Only in the last couple of years have I begun to play with more and more players and realize that it's actually a great way of getting to know people. I think, for me, the tennis front will probably be the most promising place to meet more students while I am here, at least for now - while sitting down at a table of total strangers in the cafeteria might give me pause for thought, firing small green balls over a net at a total stranger somehow feels perfectly comfortable.

I also went this morning and picked up my student card, at last. The form I sent in told me it would be sent to me, but by the end of the first week I hadn't received it either in my box or at home. Someone told me I should actually go pick it up in the library, so I went there for the first time; it's quite high tech, and very neat, I think. I look forward to exploring it more. In any case, they didn't have it, they only had replacement cards. I finally had to e-mail the card office, who replied rather coolly that I needed to go get it from the Register, which is in a completely different building a couple of blocks away.

The Register building is quite incredible; it is huge and square, and surrounds a central courtyard, about the size of a soccer field, which was being ripped up for remodeling. The entrance to the building is a series of immense vaulted archways, which dwarf you as you go through them; but they're also beautiful in their precise shape. The whole gateway gives off a feeling of old power, which I found quite attractive.

There is a terrace on the inside surrounding the courtyard, and I ended up walking around the entire space looking for the Register. The building is enormous, and contains, among other things, the law school and some kind of art gallery, as well as the Register.

After getting my card, I stood for a moment looking at the construction, wondering what they were going to do. I happened to look down, and saw archaeological remains extending from beneath the terrace I was standing on. The dig was apparently finished, because there was construction debris around an old wall foundation, and spray paint marks on what looked like a patio; but it was the first time I really realized that I am actually in a place where these kinds of remains are the norm, and I was rather blown away.

Cats

Today was the first day I started seriously looking into the work load I have here. The system is different than the American one in that the professors just provide a massive biography list on the topics covered throughout the course, and tell you to read what you'd like to in order to flesh out what we learn in the lectures, which are considered to be more of an overview of the material. There are specific readings for tutorials and seminars, but most of it is self-study. I ended up making a list of the readings that looked most appropriate and general for the topics because that's what I need right now. But I also had my first tutorial, so I got on that reading as well.

I went to go finish it this morning in Starbucks (yes, I know, Starbucks...what can I say? I'm still clinging to whatever I recognize). On my way, I scouted the location of my tutorial, and found a cat sitting on the steps to a chapel two doors down. He was very handsome, black and white, and his two front legs were different colors. A very thick coat too, and very affectionate. We consorted for about 10 minutes before I went to finish my readings over a croissant and peppermint tea.

When I came back for class and hour and a half later, the cat was still there on the steps. I had been secretly hoping he would be. I was early, so I sat on the steps with him for another twenty minutes. Another student stopped to pat him too, and told me she had seen him fall out of a tree one time during the pursuit of a squirrel.

The tutorial went well; I had more class, and then off to the first meeting for Standing Ovation, the theater enthusiast group on campus, which gets discount tickets for its members for shows all over Edinburgh. So this Friday I am off to see Swan Lake on Ice! I have no idea what to expect, but I would find it hard to turn up Swan Lake in any form.

Tennis Adventures

Yesterday I had my first class for my seminar, "Saints and Sea-kings"; it was completely new territory, like my other classes, but even more specific. It was a little intimidating, but the first class was an introduction for everyone, so I was able to absorb a bit of the background history. Also, I met a guy in class who was wearing a shirt for one of my favorite bands; we talked at length before class about Viking and folk metal.

After class the sun was out, so I decided to play tennis and test out these new courts. Racket: check. Shoes: check. Tennis balls: um...didn't bring those with me. But hey, I'm in a city, how hard can it be to find tennis balls?

Very difficult, as it turns out.

After checking multiple stores, I discovered that tennis balls are considered a "seasonal item," and the only ones I found were flat ones intended for dogs. So after an hour, a bit desperate at this point, I suddenly remembered the sports shop I found on my first day on Prince's Street; although they had almost nothing for tennis, they did in face have balls. So I hopped on the bus for the first time and found this store again; they had plenty of tennis balls, so I got a few cans for my serving practice.

Almost two hours later, I managed to get to the Meadows courts, and played for a nice long time. It was the first time I've been able to get out since before break, and in my pre-Edinburgh frame of mind tennis had taken a backseat for what were more pressing issues to me at the time. But now that I'm starting to get in the swing of things here, it felt good to relax and work on my swings, even if I was a little rusty. It was something familiar. I joined up with the social hits sector of the tennis club here too, which is once a week and was supposed to start today, but it got rained out sadly. Hopefully it will happen next week!

Settling In

Class was quite good today - we started on specific British medieval history, so it was mostly things I didn't know. It was a lot of fun to learn that much in such a short amount of time.

Also, I saw a man today as I walked back to my dorm, driving a European truck and smoking a pipe. He looked so British.

Last but not least, tonight I went to the first meeting (of the semester) for the Hot Air Balloon Society. Basically I sat in a pub for two hours, because that's where they meet, and chatted with British people. It's the first time I've actually spoken to "natives" since I've been here, and it was a pleasant experience to say the least.

I also took a walk around the Meadows today - very lovely. It is basically a huge lawn right next to the university, divided by paths. It took me 20 minutes to walk the entire length. I walked around them with the purpose of finding the tennis courts, and ended up finding them right next to where I started, after I walked around the entire thing. I'm glad I explored it though, because it's a very peaceful area, smack dab in the middle of the city. There were a lot of dogs around too.

There are also 18 very nice courts, so that was reassuring to discover. And they're free.

Refresher's Fair

Today I had no class, so I went to the "Refresher's Fair" to check out clubs. I found tennis (of course), the Hot Air Balloon Club (why not), theater enthusiasts (discount tickets to shows around town), and SocieTEA, the tea club, described to me as "we sit around and drink tea." Yes please.

Then I went and found the gym, which was free today due to the Refresher's Fair. I ran on the treadmill for a while, until I fell off by accident. I don't think many people noticed though, I was in a corner. I went looking for the weight room too, for scouting out training possibilities for this semester, but all the weights were in kilograms and not pounds, so I couldn't figure out how much they weighed. So I left. It's a very nice gym though.

Classes

My first day of classes went well; I had Scottish Archaeology in the morning, and Celtic Civilisation in the afternoon. They were both just intros to the courses, so nothing really happened, but they seem to have been good choices.

I also met some other study abroad students at a meeting we all had tonight. I ended up playing Trivial Pursuit with two of them for about two hours afterward.

The day was rather short as I was still pretty tired from my travel ordeal.

Day One in Edinburgh

Slept 17 out of the last 24 hours. Excellent.

Today I walked around the city a bit, trying to get a feel for the campus and general neighborhood of where I'll be living for the next five months. I didn't go inside anywhere, but I visited the castle and St Giles' Cathedral on the Royal Mile. I also found an armory, which contained a lot of cool armor and swords. On my way to the Royal Mile, I passed the Elephant House too, with a big sign in the window saying "Birthplace of Harry Potter," because that is apparently where J.K. Rowling first began writing the series. That was unexpected, and quite exciting!

My first impression of Prince's Street was a man standing in the middle of the road with a sign that said, "The world ends next year, on May 21st! Proof here." Looking around a bit more, I was met with the sight of hoards of people, which I had been expecting. I walked the street for a while anyways. Almost every other store was a shoe store. There was one sports store - being on the lookout for a place to buy tennis supplies, I of course went in. Although they had a tennis racket in the window and an Andy Murray ad inside, they actually had barely anything for tennis, which was disappointing. So I went next door and bought a cellphone.

I went on a bit more, until I got into what seemed like a more complicated part of town, when I took a different road around the other side of the castle back to my dorm. And that was the end of day one.

Arrival

Today I arrived in Scotland. It was a fine flight from Boston to London, but when I arrived in Heathrow, I discovered that my flight to Edinburgh had been canceled due to "heavy snow" (3.9 inches, I looked it up later).

So I booked a flight for 2:40 PM, which resulted in a nine hour layover. Literally the longest nine hours of my life, not because of lack of things to do, but because I didn't want to fall asleep in fear that I would sleep through my flight or some other important announcement. I ended up switching locations back and forth across the terminal every couple of hours to keep my surroundings fresh. My the time I finally got on the plane to Edinburgh, I had been awake for 24 hours and promptly fell asleep even before the flight safety performance. But it was a small plane and not very comfy.

There wasn't much exciting after that, but my dorm room is very nice; it is a single, en suit, and looks a bit like a nice hotel room, except with a desk and more shelves. It is in the newest dorm on campus, which was built only two years ago, so it is quite modern, but also cozy, except that the heat doesn't really spread throughout the room. There is also no pillow, so I have had to employ a folded towel for tonight, which is a little sad.